Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | March 14, 2013

Iran Partea I

Persia este unul din cele mai incarcate locuri ale planetei de mister, istorie, unicitate, simbol al civilizatiei si al culturii mondiale.

Stiu, a trecut mult timp de cand am fost in Iran dar am ramas cu amintiri atat de frumoase alaturi de oameni extraordinari incat as vrea sa las putine randuri. Precizez ca totul s-a intamplat in 2008 deci multe probabil ca s-au schimbat, ma refer reguli sau multe altele pe acolo pe la ei.

Anul 2008 descopar pe internet Iranul care ma fascineaza. Ma gandesc, cum ar fi? Oare sa…? Tin legatura cu un prieten iranian, Mohammad Reza (Droppie) si el imi propune niste trasee pe care imi este greu sa le refuz. Caut parteneri dar nu am noroc, unii nu au bani, altora le e cam teama din cauza faimei pe care le-au adus-o americanii :(.

Nici nu realizam ca voi si ajunge desi visam si planuiam totul cu amanuntul, dar intr-o zi mi-am zis: gata plec, da plec singura!  Incep si problemele, ca nah, fiind o tara islamica au si o gramada de reguli. Trebuia musai sa mi se faca chemare de la o FEMEIE. Droppie rezolva cu prietena lui Zohreh asa ca o primesc in final dupa multe vizite pe la ambasada, vizite facute chiar in timpul serviciului lasand radioul balta in pauze si fugind pana acolo. Pentru viza ea a trebuit sa mearga pe la o agentie de turism apoi la Ministerul de Externe din Iran de unde ei trimit numarul invitatiei la Ambasada Iran din Bucuresti. ( Nu cred ca mai este nevoie acum.) Pana sa ne dumirim cu toate astea timpul trecea, biletele ieftine de avion dispareau, emotii din ce in ce mai mari pentru ca imi era frica sa cumpar bilet pana nu aveam viza. Pe ultima suta de metri cu greu mai gasesc un bilet cam scump, adica 660 E la Turkish Airlines cu escala in Istanbul.

7 august

Prima oara cu avionul! Ha sa va povestesc cat de prostuta am si fost? Ahhh nu ma pot abtine, pana si eu rad acum de mine. Apare domnisoara cu papica, stewardesa, imi intinde tava, eu ma uit nedumirita si nu inteleg, ma gandesc ca tre sa aleg ceva de acolo, ma uit, aleg sandwichul si gata. Ma intreaba daca vreau ceva de baut, ii cer niste suc si iar gata. Toti inclusiv ea se uitau la mine ciudat si nu intelegeam de ce =)). Nah si voi acuma radeti, de unde sa stiu eu ca toata tava aia era pentru mine huh????? E prima oara cu avionul, ma mir ca l-am nimerit si pe care trebuie :))
In Istanbul intreb de loc de fumat, nimeni nu vorbeste engleza desi erau tineri angajatii pe acolo, pana la urma aflu ca trebuie sa ies afara, renunt ca nu aveam chef iar de check in blah blah si astept cuminte avionul urmator…unde ha am luat tot ce mi s-a dat ba am cerut si cafea da?! Invat repede nu? :))

18 30 in Iran in aeroportul Imam Khommeni, Tehran. Emotii, mari emotii. Ies afara, aprind o tigare repede, ma uit in jur, nimeni nu ma astepta. Stau si stau, taximetristii se uitau cu jind la mine sa ma jegmaneasca si incep gandurile negre. Daca nu apare nimeni ce fac? Unde naiba ma duc? Mama trece timpul nimic, deja era panica si ma gandeam sa ii caut pe alti doi romani din Iasi care erau acolo pentru Damavand si alte plimbari si cu care am tinut legatura si aveam numarul de telefon al unuia in caz de. Hey nu sunt chiar proasta :)!!!  Ok il sun pe Droppie, ma asigura ca vin si ei doar ca era foarte aglomerat. Apar in final, erau mai multi in masina, Zohreh ma intampina cu un buchet mare si frumos de flori, Droppie era atat de fericit sa ma vada, fac cunostinta cu restul si gata ma linistesc si eu.  Tehranul asta  e asa de maaaaree si aglomerat, nu-mi vine a crede ca-s acolo!!!!!! Ajungem la casa unde voi sta o perioada, la un cuplu casatorit foarte dragut, ei nevrand sub nici o forma sa stau la hotel deloc. Sunt primita ca o regina specific poporului persan pentru care este o onoare sa le treci pragul casei si care fac totul sa-ti fie bine si sa nu-ti lipseasca nimic :). Cand am plecat de la ei mi-au dat cadouri uau, da la ei este invers, gazda iti face cadouri :D.

Nici n-am ajuns bine si am fost asaltata de toti cu intrebari, curiozitati, despre mine, Romania etc de pur si simplu m-au coplesit. Simt ca ma sufoc si ca nu mai pot asa ca il iau pe Droppie deoparte si ii propun sa plecam pe Tochal, 3960m, in noaptea aia, desi eu eram dupa drum si nedormita de multe ore. Droppie imi spune ca mai bine sa stam, sa ma odihnesc ca sunt de pe drum dar eu totusi insist disperata :)). Plecam pe la ora 23, oricum noaptea fiind racoare e mult mai bine pentru a urca, ziua fiind criminal de cald. Pe traseu ne mai intalnim cu un baiat si o fata pe care ii cunostea Droppie si astfel am continuat cu totii oprind si pe la un refugiu unde am mancat oua scramble cu rosii inauntru gatite, o bunatate. Acolo multi barbati fiecare cu covorasul lui isi faceau rugaciunile si se uitau cam urat la mine ca nu aveam capul acoperit. In timp am aflat ca aduceam o mare jignire aratandu-mi parul si am avut grija sa mi-l acopar desi nu prea suportam.

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La ref Shirpala spre dimineata peste 24 de ore nedormite cad rupta de oboseala in timp ce ei vorbeau acolo in limba lor. Adorm bine de tot cateva ore iar dupa am continuat urcarea pe vf, dar era deja ziua si asa de cald Doamne iar eu trebuia sa fiu si imbrobodita ohhhhhhhh……
Pt Tochal exista 5 rute dar cea mai urcata este cea pe care am fost si noi si porneste din Darband.

Inca un pui de somn pe varf

Inca un pui de somn pe varf

Urmatoarele zile planuim Damavand unde trebuia sa ne intalnim si cu baietii din Iasi, dar din pacate a trebuit sa amanam plecarea din cauza ca nu ma simteam bine deloc, am mancat kebab, carne de oaie aoleo. Pentru Damavand mai trebuia sa urmarim si vremea si sa nu fie weekend (vineri e weekend la ei) fiind foarte aglomerat si exista riscul sa nu gasim loc in refugiu.

Asa ca am fost pentru prima oara intr-un desert, Maranjab, vizitat muzee prin Kashan, zona, cascade, a fost minunat si atat de nou pentru mine.

Din masina

Din masina

Tot din masina

Tot din masina

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Copii care mi-au cerut sa le scriu ceva si ma tot urmareau :))

Copii care mi-au cerut sa le scriu ceva si ma tot urmareau :))

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Am ajuns si in desert desi ni s-a spus ca e prea cald si sa avem grija. Chiar era foarte cald, daca nu aveam aer conditionat in masina muream prajiti si sufocati.Am vazut dromaderi salbatici yey 😀 , liderul lor ne-a si atacat hahahaha.

Nervosul

Nervosul

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Poza mea preferata

Poza mea preferata

Multe urme de scorpioni si serpi ne-au facut sa avem mare grija pe unde calcam, ha de parca stiam eu de unde iese din nisip vreun scorpion. Am ajuns si la o oaza unde am fi stat mai mult daca nu ne ataca un caine sau ceva de genul destul de fioros.

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Am vazut un apus superb si au urmat momente speciale pe care ei le-au facut sa para iesite din real, mistice. Offf daca as putea intoarce timpul….ehhhh… Apoi ei doi au disparut un timp in care eu am trait niste momente de neuitat, singura, noapte, in desert….

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Am fost si prin canioane doar cu Droppie, Marea Caspica cu colegi de serviciu ai lui Zohreh unde a trebuit sa fac baie imbracata hahahah, plus un loc frumos de camping in alti munti mai mici nu-mi amintesc numele si in tot felul de locuri. Arunc niste poze de prin toate excursiile:

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Intre canioane

Intre canioane

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Seara in camping pe langa narghilele toti mi-au facut o surpriza asa de frumoasa, mi-au cantat un cantec care imi placea mie mult :):

Ha!

Ha!

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Am vizitat si sediul ziarului politic important din Teheran ca acolo lucra Zohreh, am fost cu ea la cumparaturi de rochite ca nu aveam nimic sa ma acopar bine, Droppie m-a dus in restaurante cu mancare specifica si intre timp Zohreh si-a dorit mult de tot sa ma mut la ea acasa. Au urmat zile petrecute mai mult cu mama ei si sora ei mai mica, am fost indopata cu mancare ca cica eram prea slaba, am fost invatata putin farsi si momente dragute cu Zohreh seara. Nu-mi vine sa cred nici acum cat de primitori si cat de saritori sunt oamenii astia, nu mi-a lipsit absolut nimic, nu m-ai spun ca nu ma lasau sa cheltui nici un banut de la mine.

Popas fast food la intoarcere. Ceva cam diferit decat la noi hamburgerii, pareau mai sanatosi :)).

Popas fast food la intoarcere. Ceva cam diferit decat la noi hamburgerii, pareau mai sanatosi :)).

19 august

In sfarsit vine si ziua plecarii spre Damavand echipa fiind eu, Droppie si un prieten de al lui, Vahid.

   Va urma

Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | March 12, 2013

Basarbovo sau romanii invadeaza Bulgaria

09, 10 03 2013

Andrei-Andreea,  Dorian-Ana, Octavian-Viorica

Daca vremea la romani e proasta tragem cu ochiul la vecinii bulgari unde e cald, soare si bine.  Ar fi si prima iesire la catarat pe anul asta.

O sa las pozele sa vorbeasca pentru mine, nah prea multe nu am de spus. Cocotzeanus, trasee mai grele decat la noi cotate (parerea mea), seara de Uno care devine deja un obicei si de data asta cu porunci care mai de care mai stupide dar amuzante, soare, cald, lume multa si nah ca la escalada hmmm.

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

Love Story :)

Love Story 🙂

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Octavian

By Octavian

De la Vio, multumesc :)

De la Vio, multumesc 🙂

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

By Vio

Bulgarian good fucking climber
By Octavian

Octavian fotograful

Octavian fotograful

Cainele care anunta pe toata lumea ca treci pe acolo

Cainele care anunta pe toata lumea ca treci pe acolo

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Photo 1

 

 

The End

Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | February 26, 2013

Albisoara Gemenelor

Albisoara Gemenelor 2 A

Echipa: Andrei, Octavian, Andreea

23 02 2013

Vineri si inca nu stiu ce sa fac. Sunt in vizita la sora-mea la masa si ma tot gandesc unde sa ies in weekend. Il sun pe Andrei, stiam ce aveau de gand dar nu stiam daca sa merg cu ei sau nu. De mult timp il bateam la cap cu Albisoara Crucii, eu nestiind ca ei se gandisera la Gemenelor. Imi spune ca pana seara am timp sa ma hotarasc daca vreau sau nu. Mmmmm, sa merg, sa nu merg, vremea nu-mi parea buna de Albisoare… Pana la urma zic da, vin!

18 30 Victoriei, de unde ne preia Octavian cu masina. Ne cazam la Caminul Alpin asta dupa ce dam o raita prin Mega Image din Busteni pentru una alta. Inainte de culcare mancam si ne servim cu vinisor, adica baietii si eu o bere cu merisoare :). Urmeaza in camera si planul cum sa  facem, daca ne intoarcem seara tot aici sau sa ne ducem la Costila pentru a face inca ceva si duminica. Hotarare finala, tot calabalacul dupa noi, ca de, poate vrem antrenament pentru eu stiu ce :)). Toata noaptea am dormit cu fata in calorifer, era fierbinte si tare placut, ma gandeam sa profit ca nu mai pup eu caldurica :D.

Stupid faces

Stupid faces

Dimineata ma trezesc cam buimaca dupa un somn tare bun. Cafeluta, de mancat ciuciu ca baietii se pare ca nu servesc micul dejun si pregatirile de rigoare.

Pornim spre Valea Alba cu sperante de ceva ferestre de mai senin, desi prin padure era cam incetosat si nici pe sus nu arata prea bine.

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Poteca e batuta si se pare ca mai e un grup care vor pe Albisoara Crucii. Ii ajungem din urma fix inainte de trecerea spre Alba.

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La Verdeata facem un mic popas, schimbam opinii cu celalalt grup care se temeau mai mult de starea zapezii. Ne echipam si noi, servim rapid cate o ciocolata sau chestii de genul si pornim dupa ei ca doar aveam punct comun pana se desparteau albisoarele.

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Incepe distractia. Zapada era mare. Inaintam destul de greu dar pentru inceput sa zicem ca ok. Ajungem la o mica, sa-i zic saritoare, pe care o trecem rapid fara probleme. De acolo o adevarata placere, nimic impresionant dar frumos. Peisaj nu prea aveam decat cateodata cand se mai ducea din ceata.

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Nu stiam nici unul cat avem, cat ar dura sau etc, doar  Octavian avea cateva descrieri sumare. Mai facem un popas pe o muchie, bem apa si rontaim cate ceva.

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Apoi incepe calvarul, un pas inainte si unul inapoi printr-o zapada mare si pufoasa. Parca nu inaintam mai deloc.

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Ajungem si la saritoarea cu piton unde Octavian se baga primul.

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Un bolovan cu o fasie de gheata care se spargea daca dadeai cu pioletul prea tare si cu ceva praf de zapada si nici un locsor de prins pioletii. Trece Octavian pana la urma, se duce mai sus unde sa asigure si ne spune sa avem grija sa nu stam mult ca ne ingheata repede mainile. Pfff, mdea, randul meu ha! Si incerc, pffff, nu reusesc sa prind pioletii de nimic, incerc din nou, reusesc doi pasi, nu pot sa-mi infig coltarii in nimic, aoleo incep mainile sa inghete, la naiba WTF nu poooooooooooooooooooooot! Andrei: hai ca poti incearca dar mai repede! La naibaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, ma dor mainile rau si nu ajung mai sus unde sa pot infige bine pioletii sa ma trag!!!!! Eahhh ma prind un pic de coarda si ma trag pana ajung sa infig bine pioletii si cu dureri cumplite reusesc. Scot niste sunete si injuraturi si-mi vine sa vomit de la durere. Trebuie sa continui sa poata si Andrei sa vina. Mama dar nu pot folosi mainile deloc, ufff dar trebuie, incet dar trebuie. Andrei trece destul de usor si deja imi este in spate, ehh inaltii astia. Continui in gemete si incet incep sa mi se incalzeasca la loc. Pfuai!

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Panta incepe sa devina mai abrupta de aici pana ajungem la horn. De data asta Andrei e primul, eu si Octavian in spate buluc in locul ala stramt. Andrei incearca saritoarea dar nu-i iese. Coarda e in spate la Octavian deci se da jos. Octavian bate un piton asa de moral la baza care sincer nu cred ca ar fi tinut si incearca si el. Conditiile nu erau bune pentru a trece, nu gaseai o fisura, smoc de iarba sa te poti prinde de ceva, daca cadea de acolo peste noi mmm, not so nice,  nu mai zic ca deja era 15 40 . Nu stiam nici cat mai avem de acolo si sa ajungem si la Costila la refugiu clar nu, deci probabil un bivuac pe undeva. (Aflam noi mai tarziu ca de acolo era gata ieseam in creasta  :((. )

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Hotaram sa coboram tot pe acolo. Ahhh zapada mare care ne-a ingreunat atata si ne-a intarziat atat a fost un dar divin pentru coborare. Vai nu as fi coborat de acolo decat legata pana jos :)). Asa ca incepe distractia descatararii. La saritoarea care mi-a omorat mainile am facut rapel cu asigurare in zapada la pioleti :D, bine doar eu si Andrei.  Eu prima cica de testare, ehhh faceau mishto de mine, Andrei si Octavian ultimul care a trebuit sa faca un salt de mare frumusetea pentru ca nu avea cum altfel :D.

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Apoi mai jos am hotarat sa trecem in firul de alaturi, din Albisoara Crucii ca era mai usor la coborare. Inapoi La Verdeata constat cu stupoare ca nu am frontala si deja se intuneca. O uitasem in camera din Camin cu siguranta, nu cred ca o pierdusem in traseu.

Tot drumul ne gandeam la caldura, mancare si odihnaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. La Camin primul lucru pe care il fac e sa ma duc in camera unde dormisem si care deja era ocupata sa-mi caut frontala. Surpriza dar nu e de gasit. Lia ma asigura ca daca o gaseste cand va face curat o voi gasi acolo la lucruri pierdute. Mmmmmm de abia ce o primisem si-mi placea asa de mult, Black Diamond  :((. Ehh asa e cu lucrurile la care tii, nu ai bafta de ele frate, nu!

Mama cu o lene cumplita ne decidem totusi sa iesim sa mancam la Casa Magica. O bine meritata pizza imi sta in fata si pe care o savurez alaturi de o Fanta. Mmm yum yum ce bine au mers. Mai putin pizza vegetariana a  lui Octavian care parca era pizza de porumb ca tare mult mai avea pe ea, tapetata numai cu porumb :)). Revenim si intinsul in pat este o adevarata binecuvantare.

Duminica. Mmmm cata leneeeeeee, ma cam dor bratele si muschii de la picioare, mmm cata leneeee. Baietii se tot gandesc ce am mai putea face. asa de o plimbare sa nu zicem ca nu am facut nimic si azi. Afara ningea, totul era in ceata, ce am putea face? Si uite coborand jos cu bagaje cu tot am gasit :D!!!! Da!!!!! Campionatul de ping pong de la Caminul Alpin din Busteni. De la o simpla joaca asa aiurea am ajuns sa jucam cu adevarat, tinand scor si tot ce trebuie. Vai ce mi-a mnai placut si ce dor imi era :D! Si uite asa am gasit ce face si duminica ca am tot jucat mai mult de o ora, pffff  nici nu stiu cat :)). Ne-a cam prins pe toti :))! Ehhh aici Octavian ne-a cam facut :))!!!!

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A urmat drumul spre Bucuresti unde am ajuns chiar foarte devreme :).

Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | February 11, 2013

In tara lui Alb

Echipa: Andrei la dublu, Andrei N cu Rox si Octavian

Poze: Andrei N, Octavian si eu

09, 10 02 2013

Frate ce de Andrei, zici ca suntem o secta deaia dubioasa in care noi nu aratam identici dar avem acelasi nume, mai lipseau si Andrei cu Rux si deja cream confuzii :))

Se pare ca iarna asta ne cam da de furca. Vremea nu se anunta prea buna deloc nici weekendul asta. Eu as fi vrut sa incercam o vale ceva prin Bucegi sau ceva mai tehnic.  Joi seara vorbesc cu Andrei si el imi spune ca si-ar dori ceva la doua zile cu stat la cort. Mmmm ok dar unde?  Intre timp si Andrei N cu Rox isi exprima dorinta de a iesi undeva, ei initial vroiau de vineri sa plece (fiind ziua Roxanei), dar au renuntat .Ok hai in Piatra Mare ca nu am mai fost demult. Vineri se schimba in Baiului. Seara si Octavian isi anunta prezenta. Sambata aflu ca de fapt ar fi Neamtului. Domne cate schimbari :).

Sambata dimineata ora 7 00 Victoriei, imbarcarea in masina lui Octavian.

In Azuga urcatul partiei o adevarata “placere”, sincer as fi urcat cu gondola aia :D.

Transpiram bine pana sus unde se anunta “minunat”, de la minunat in sus, cat de sus se poate ca oricum nu vedeai nimic :D.

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Prea multe nu am de spus, multa balaureala, nici o priveliste decat a partenerilor de drum, impresia ca am ajuns in Neamtului 😀 si multa zapada :D.

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Dupa cateva ore de mers asa prin lapte, la ideea lui Andrei N coboram nu prea placut din muchia… cutare ca nu stiu care…. nu ne place si urcam la loc, asta dupa ce radem de el putin, mai mergem un pic si intr-un final pe la 16 00 hotaram sa punem corturile.

Unii mai sapa, ca de au lopata noua ;), noi amplasam cortul cu greu, mai un cui normal, mai unul de zapada, mai un bat de trekking si ehhh intr-un final cortul e ridicat si sa zicem ca stabil :)).

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Eu ma bag repede cu picioarele in sac ca asta imi era singura dorinta de ceva timp, mancam un pic si incepe seara de Uno. Uno asortat cu multe sticlute de visinata, zmeurata, vinisor astea si dupa ceva cam tare pentru mine adus de Octavian de prin Austria. Da unooooooooooo, joc dala de te tine cu orele si te obsedeaza cum sa-l oftici pe celalalt sau in fine mai bine zis distractia unora sa ma oftice pe mine hmmmm.

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O tinem bine cu uno pana seara tarziu, toti in cortul lui Andrei destul de spatios pentru party.  Funny sa joci carti in pustiu si pe o vreme ca aia :D. Vorba lui Andrei N ti-era si frica sa te duci mai departe fara GPS la tine :)).

Pana sa ne bagam la somn cu Andrei si Octavian mai tinem o sesiune de mancat, piure, slaninuta, yum yum.  Apoi adorm repede pe salteluta lui Andrei :D, a avut bunatatea de a ma rasfata sacrificandu-se trecand la mijloc pe izoprenul meu cu multe denivelari de la zapada :). Noaptea ma m-ai trezesc ca tot aud un vant nebun si-mi era ca zburam cu totul la cat de bine ancorasem noi cortul. Deja ma simt ca Dorothy, dar cu bocanci si deasupra zapezilor pustii catre tara lui Alb. Am impresia si ca ploua dar de fapt ningea de rupea.

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Dimineata Andrei isi face curaj pe la 9? si se trezeste, preparand repede si o cafea. Urmeaza si Octavian iar eu ca deobicei mai lenesa profit de fiecare secunda, minut in plus sa…  Sorbim cafeaua, ne amuzam de cum ne arata rucsacii plini de zapada, ne uitam cu groaza la ce- i afara si rontaim cate ceva. Vorbim si cu vecinii sa strangem toti in acelasi timp nu cumva sa ramana careva sa astepte in viscolul ala nici un minut in plus :)).

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Traseul va fi cale intoarsa ca nu prea aveam variante bune de a ajunge tot in Azuga la masina. Orientarea e si mai grea ca in ziua precedenta, viscolul face ca vizibilitatea sa fie 0 :D. Ieri lapte, azi milkshake :D. Ma simt ca intr-o expeditie  :D. Poate suna a masochism dar mie imi place mult senzatia de la viscol, senzatia aia de-ti biciuieste fata pana la durere combinat cu mersul greu prin zapada :D.

Baietii se chinuie cu GPS ul sa gaseasca drumul dar sincer mie mi se pare ca a fost un sus si jos total aiurea :)). Mai facem si o pauza de incepem sa aratam rapid ca in documentarele alea de prin Himalaya sau alti munti de genul, apoi in alta pauza cu Rox si Andrei N folosim tactica pinguinilor de a ne strange unul langa celalalt :)). Andrei cu manusile din puf ce-i pasa 😀 iar Octavian face multe poze unde surprinde bine din multe momente , ehhh frumos domne frumos :).

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Urmeaza urcusuri multe, ciudat de multe, parca ieri nu am coborat atata?!!!! Dar de ce urcam asa mult??? Dar de ce nu se mai termina ca m-am cam saturat???? Am luat clar alte muchii?!!!! :)) Apoi urmeaza o traversare mai inclinata, inghetata unde normal ca trebuia sa bata si vantul tare sa ma dezechilibreze de tot. Si inca putin si gata am ajuns iar la partie pfffff. Ce liniste era acolo, ningea frumos ca in povesti, lumea toata linistita isi vedeau de sckiat ul lor iar noi parca veneam din cu totul alta lume :)). Coboratul floare la ureche pana jos cu dorinte de pizze, beri, sucuri fiecare dupa plac si care se mai si indeplinesc.

Pe drum catre Bucuresti ne-am amuzat tare de ce auzeam pe la radio, apropo de asta, Andrei “tu esti fructul meu interzis…” hahahahahahah :)), apoi discutii despre lumea araba, Hitler etc, mmmm suna cam dubios ha? Oricum Andrei N a reusit sa ne amuze cam tot drumul :)).

Multumiri lui Octavian pentru drum, imi inchipui ca a fost tare obositor sa conduci in conditiile alea  si dupa o astfel de tura :).

Ca final asa, nu va inchipuiti ca am fost in Neamtului, ca nu am fost deloc decat asa pe la granita, noi se pare ca am facut doar Petru Orgojoaia sau ceva de genul pe acolo 😀 :)). Ehhh ce mai conteaza cand la toti albumele cu poze s-au chemat “Neamtului 09 10 02 2013 :)).

Si nu in ultimul rand, multumesc Rox si Andrei pentru cercei, sunt superbi :D!!!!!

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Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | February 11, 2013

Galbinele pe o parte si pe cealalta

Echipa: Andrei la dublu, Viorel si Liana

02 02 2013

Prea multe nu o sa scriu despre tura asta. Am avut multe momente frumoase, zapada destul de buna, vant cam puternic si  m-am bucurat sa revin pe valea asta atat de frumoasa. O sa las mai mult pozele sa vorbeasca pentru mine :). Ahhh tin sa felicit pe Liana pentru care a fost prima oara cu coltari si piolet si care s-a descurcat de minune. Chiar daca pe alocuri a simtit si frica ea totusi a continuat si nu s-a plans de nimic :).

Cu Liana

Cu Liana

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Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | February 5, 2013

Doi Andrei, niste lupi si doua zile de nastere

25, 26 ianuarie 2013

Unde si unde sa ne sarbatorim????? Vremea nu se anunta prea buna deci ce sa facem???? Hai in Baiului,  facem creasta din Sinaia in Azuga…mmmm ok.

Plecam de vineri dimineata. In Sinaia stam putin prin gara la o cafea si apoi pornim spre Piscul Cainelui cu ninsoarea dupa noi. Ohh si ce frumos mai ningea , ca-n povesti:).

Urcam cam lenesi si cu cat inaintam cu atat dam de zapada mai mare. Si din ce in ce mai mare, tot mai mare de ne afundam din ce in ce mai mult :)). Si dai si lupta, mai cazi un pic, mai un popas, mai o poza si incet incet castigam teren.

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Intr-un final ajungem la stana si hotaram, sau mai bine zis eu hotarasc :)), sa ramanem acolo peste noapte.

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Nu punem cortul desi Andrei cam asta ar fi vrut ca doar nu-l carase degeaba, ci intr-o anexa sa-i zic asa, o camaruta separata de stana unde era izolat bine si nu mirosea.

Ne instalam, scoatem numai bunataturi si le insiram ca pe ofrande. Andrei devine un pic cam stresat ca nu-si luase tigari decat vreo 5 plus  inca 3 ramase de la revelion din foi primite de la sora lui. Hotarase ca in semn de solidaritate fata de mine, care ma chinuiam sa ma las, sa nu-si ia multe ca sa nu ma tenteze. Ei as deja il ajutasem si eu sa le termine mai repede :)). Pregatim o supa, mai rontaim cate ceva si ne bagam in saci sa stam putin, putinul ala se transforma intr-un somn adanc, adanc de cateva ore. Andrei totusi se mai si trezeste, il tot aud cum se misca pe acolo dar eu n- am chef sa ies din sac deloc :D.  Pana la urma fac si eu ochi, imi spune ca s-a luminat si se vede frumos catre Bucegi si mai e si luna plina. O daaaaa, dupa o zi fara pic de vizibilitate si ninsoare acum in  sfarsit ni se arata Bucegiul foarte frumos, incredibil cum se luminase cerul asa dintr-o data.

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Continuam seara cu un piure, ciocolata elvetiana, se trece si la tigarile de foi, stam mult de vorba despre tot felul si ajungem sa ne cunoastem mai bine si uite asa ne prinde 12 noaptea :). Ii urez lui Andrei un La Multi Ani somnoros si adormim din nou.

Sambata, ne urnim si noi tot pe ninsoare si vant, din nou nu aveam nici un peisaj nimic.

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Sus in creasta eu vad niste urme si ii zic lui Andrei ca mi se par de lup, el nu ca ar fi de vulpe, hmmm bine daca zici tu :).  Continuam in vant si intr-o atmosfera cam creepy dar care nu stiu de ce mie chiar imi place si-mi da un sentiment de wild si frumos…. Am zis wild???? Da????? Oare ce mai lipseste din peisaj???? Mmmm?????

Ei uite ca ne oprim un pic sa mai rontaim cate ceva si ma uit si eu in spate sa mai admir una alta.

Andreeeeeeeeei se misca ceva acolo!!!!!!!!!!! Andrei: Nu-i nimic poate niste copacei ceva!!! Baaaaaai se misca!!!!

Cand ne mai uitam o data ghici ce!!!!! Vreo sase, sapte lupi aliniati in creasta se uitau la noi si noi la ei si ei la noi, unul era alb frumos…. Eu am intrat in panica si intreb, ce facem??? Andrei: scoate aparatul si fa-le poza…. Pfff poza???? Poza ca sa ce, sa vada lumea de ce mi-am lasat oasele pe aici?????? In fine pana sa ma dezmeticesc eu deja ei au zbughit-o jos in padure, se pare ca au fost doar curiosi si nu am prezentat prea mare interes :D. Vai dar ce s-a terminat aici? Nu frate nu!!!! Tot traseul m-am uitat ca o disperata, paranoica in spate ca doar poate ne urmaresc si ne ataca cand nu suntem pe faza…. Cred ca am vazut prea multe filme cu lupi :)).

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Vantul batea, vizibilitate putina iar noi nu prea stiam exact pe unde ne aflam. Nu stim ce sa facem, sa continuam? Sa dormim in creasta? Sa coboram???  Pana vedem pe un picior o stana… hai sa coboram la ea zic eu ca la cort aici nu stau, parca mi-e cam frica sa nu vina lupii la noi :)). Vedem, mai continuam maine daca se face vremea mai ok. Coboram jos la ea, ce frumos a fost pana acolo, ne-a placut mult.

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Ajungem in preajma, nu mai vedem unde e stana, pana la urma localizam si coboram la ea.

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Ne chinuim sa dam zapada la o parte , usa fiind blocata de un bustean acoperit cu zapada. Ne uitam, cercetam, eu parca as ramane dar Andrei isi doreste cam mult sa coboare in Sinaia, hmm oare pt tigari??? :))  Si incepem sa coboram direct pana ajungem la un forestier. Imi parea rau ca eu planuisem sa-l sarbatoresc frumos, aveam tort, lumanarica, vin era destul chiar la sticla :)), icre negre, o salata ce avea el frantuzeasca etc ce sa mai ditai festinul.  Pana la urma ma gandesc ca si aici in drumul forestier ar fi dragut sa ne oprim  si sa gustam cate putin din fiecare :).

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La Multi Ani Andrei! 🙂 Ce cadou frumos ai primit de ziua ta (sa zicem si a mea care fusese cu doua zile inainte), sa vezi asa multi lupi, dintre care si unul alb, raritate, nu e ceva atat de comun si des intalnit :).

PS:  Si cadoul meu cu doua zile in urma de la Andrei 😀 : Ha pe mine m-am mancat fix in poza de dinainte :)).

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Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | February 4, 2013

Pe Ace cu Morari in spate

21 09 2012

Echipe: Rux si Andrei, Andreea (eu)si Andrei D, Despot si Dorian

Plecam vineri seara eu si Andrei cu masina lui Dorian, cu restul aveam sa ne intalnim pe valea Cerbului unde planuiam sa dormim. Pe Dorian il stiam din o tura in Crai, dar pe restul nu, doar pe Rux de pe blogul ei unde nimeream deseori :). Asa ca nu numai ca va fi o tura mai ciudata si mai neintalnita pe Acele Morarului, cu rucsaci mari ticsiti cu de toate necesare inclusiv corturi, dar mai aveam sa si cunosc oameni noi.

Ajungem tarziu si noi, ii gasim plini de voie buna, facem cunostinta, mai stam la o vorba apoi unii ne punem corturile altii decid sa doarma in masina.

22 09 2012

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Vai cat de greu imi e sa ma trezesc dar uf trebuie. Strangem si pornim, unii mai cu spor altii mai fara (adica eu :)), nu cred ca am ratat un pic de motait la nici un popas. Cand iesim de pe valea Cerbului pe brana incep sa ma simt tare rau si foarte obosita si ii zic lui Andrei ca parca nu ma simt in stare si ca as lasa-o pe duminica.

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Ma tarai cat pot pana la baza unde s-a stat la ceva odihna, atipesc din nou si totusi ma hotarasc ca as vrea sa le facem cu totii atunci :).

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Rux cu Andrei pornesc primii, noi dupa ei si Despot cu Dorian ultimii.

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Ajungem la Acul Mare, ne echipam, Andrei ca deobicei grabit cum e nici nu ma lasa sa apuc sa-l asigur ca repede deja era la jumatate. Pfuai pornesc si eu dupa, uau ce sentiment cu casa in spate. Nu prea reuseam eu sa ma tin bine pe picioare si cam mult balans pe mine :)), vai cum putea sa fie cu greutatea aia…  dar ha sa vad eu dupa cum o sa  ma catar asa :D.

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Trec cu bine, ajung sa dau rapel imi cam tremura picioarele ca na greutatea e mai mare, reverso meu ma cam grabeste pe coarda noua a lui Andrei… ehhh ajung pana la urma ok jos :).

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Vazusem ca mai este si o echipa inaintea noastra de doi pe care i-am gasit pe Degetul Rosu. Cat am ras acolo citind din caiet tot felul care mai de care mai amuzante, ca doar am avut ceva de stat pe acolo. Nu stiu de ce baietii aceia au rapelat cam greu. Foarte frumoasa e privelistea de acolo si mai ales creasta careia nu-i stiu numele dar atat de impresionanta mai ales acum cu norii in jurul ei. Ahhhh raman ultima si cand ajung si eu Andrei imi spune sa dau rapelul pana jos in brana direct.  Radea cu Despot de cum ma stresam ca nu vedeam sa ajunga coarda chiar pana jos dar m-am descurcat.  De acolo Dorian nu a mai vrut sa continue si Despot a trebuit sa se duca cu el  jos pe brana si sa ne intalnim cu totii sus la final. 😦

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A urmat Degetul prelungit si Acul Crucii unde Andrei a lui Rux a muncit ceva sa treaca, deh nu e usor deloc cu rucsac mare si cap de coarda. Apoi a urmat si Rux care ca deobicei trece cu eleganta si vine si randul nostru. Ma tot gandeam, oare o sa reusesc sa catar cu rucsacul asta???? Oare o sa pot trece pasajul asta??? Ca dupa gata nu mai e nimic care sa ma mai streseze…. Andrei trece relativ usor, prefera pe exterior apoi pe ac in sus si gata urmez si eu. Ajung acolo, stau si stau, baietii intalniti pe traseu au ramas ultimii si se tot uitau la mine sa vada cum o sa trec :D. Ma chinui si iar ma chinui si ma enervez si incerc si eu pe exterior si ma apuc de ce pot cum pot si yes trec :D!!!!! Ahhh cat de usor trecusem eu pasajul asta alta data dar cu rucsac mic :)). De pe Acul Crucii un pic de emotii la coborat pana la punctul de rapel, apoi un rapel tot cu emotii,  nu stiu dar nu aveam incredere deloc ca o sa tina 😀 si in sfarsit safe jos.

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Deja incepea sa se lase seara, vedem un apus superb, luam si o pauza dupa Acul de Sus. De acolo cand am zis gata ce-i mai greu s-a terminat ha surpriza, nu. Andrei propune sa o luam in dreapta, sa urcam niste fete care erau inghetate si cu putina zapada, deci pana am ajuns sus mi-au tremurat picioarele sa mor de teama in bezna aia si pe niste fete inclinate si fara piolet doar cu tehnica aia super cu firele de iarba.

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In fine pana la urma trecem si de asta si mai urmeaza urcusul final pana la Omu care ne-a terminat pe toti, eram deja obositi, infometati si tot nu se mai termina. Totusi am putut admira cu totii luminitele oraselelor care se vedeau minunat :). La Omu ceaiuri, papica apoi baietii s-au dus sa puna corturile.  Intre timp  eu si Rux am profitat de momentul acela intre fete si am reusit sa ne spunem in putinul timp destule cat pt o zi intreaga :)).

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Hmm nu am dormit foarte bine desi eram intre doi baieti in cort ;).  Strangem, ne rasfiram in fata cabanei pentru un timp apoi jos pe valea Cerbului.

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A fost o tura foarte frumoasa, cu prieteni noi care mi-au placut mult si cu care m-am simtit foarte bine. Acele Morarului sunt superbe oricand, oricum si pe care le as face in fiecare an ca o traditie.  Totusi trebuie sa recunosc ca nu m-am gandit niciodata ca o sa le fac cu asa greutate in spate dar a fost o experienta si mi a placut :D!!!! Oare data viitoare cum o sa le fac????? 😀 😉

Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | January 30, 2013

One autumn week in Piatra Craiului

http://www.summitpost.org/one-autumn-week-in-piatra-craiului/826539

I haven’t given many details regarding the places we visited or the names of the shelters because here we try to keep such things secret so that the refuges won’t be destroyed by some pseudo-tourists.

I didn’t have any clue where to spend my last week of vacation :). When talking with my coworker Marius from the Iasi studio, I chose to go with him in October, when he could take his vacation. I managed to take a week off at the same time. Meanwhile there were many changes in my humble existence, I met some fantastic people, one of whom, Andrei, expressed his desire to go with us. It would be the first time he’d spent a week in the mountains even though he goes every weekend, never missing one :). Marius would join us on Monday. Andrei and I were supposed to start climbing on Friday, but finally we went on Saturday around lunch, pfff, the weather wasn’t great, a lot of rain, why not have some more sleep? :)) When we got out the door, wow, we looked like two Santa Clauses with huge backpacks full of gear so we took a taxi instead of tram and subway in order to relieve people from a major stress :)).

Rainy days
Rainy weekend

On the train one talkative woman living in Vienna made the time pass quickly, very quickly; we did not realize that we’d arrived at Brasov City. In Brasov we decided to take the bus to Zarnesti as we would have had to wait about 2 hours for the train. We arrived late at Gura Raului, which on our previous trip was our base for about 2 days. Till Monday morning when Marius came we would just stay in the tent, watching movies, listening to music, having tons of food and many snacks with a special schedule: All week we made it a habit to wake up at night to take a snack LOL. Bad weather all weekend, why do not we let our tired bones rest a little?

Monday

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Marius
What? Lol

Marius arrived in the morning after a night of driving and we went to seek the hidden shelter in which we’d been planning to stay. The weather was pretty foggy and cloudy, but was changing for the better.

It was the first time Marius and I had seen the shelter. I was pleasantly surprised at how nice and well maintained it was, I felt like I was at home :D, I liked it very much. We explored the area in the vicinity of the refuge and the notebooks inside it. We found some stories written by the guy who first built it. I was making much sense on that day :). I was somewhere up on a cliff with a great view of the area and looking down to the road to Plaiul Foii when I saw something black moving and I said: Look there’s a doggie! Andrei was dying of laughter when he heard, it was a car of course, how could I see a dog there so far away and wow, how fast that “dog” was LOL! Me and my imagination or… insanity?

Foggy day
In the way to a hidden refuge
View to Plaiul Foii road

Tuesday

Down to the car, ate well, took small backpacks and went up to the Crapaturii Valley to try and climb the Needle, Corner Crack 3A. The wind blew hard but the weather was forecast to be better this time. I liked the valley a lot as well as talking to Andrei when we waited for Marius. Andrei as usual, when we arrived, got ready quickly and started to climb the first pitch. I gave my camera to Marius so he could take pictures of us – he had decided to quit, he wasn’t ready to rockclimb that day.

Corner Crack to the first pitch
First pitch
First pitch from Corner Crack
First anchor station

Ohhh I strongly disliked the first pitch, lots of grass, unstable rocks, lucky I wasn’t leading pffff. After the first pitch we sit for a while, smoke a cigarette, then Andrei continues and continues and continues, he disappears from sight and it’s also hard to hear him. Luckily Marius shouts to me from down there and explains what Andrei is doing and where he is. The wind begins to blow, some ugly clouds appear, it’s getting late and cold and I am thinking of quitting but at that moment Marius screams to me that Andrei is in the saddle before the top. Ehh well then, why give up, we have to finish it :D. I start finally, try hard to pull out some of the slings but I fail, Andrei tells me to leave them as we can take them on the way back. I pass the heavier passages pretty fast, wow, that’s the benefit of being the second.

Corner Crack 3A
Corner Crack 3A
The Corner Crack window from the saddle, second pitch
The window from the saddle before the last lenght to the top

Finally I get myself to the saddle where the second pitch begins. Oh how beautiful it is, it looks like a window with impressive views. We follow the last length of rope, short and easy, to the summit.There we climb the highest of the higher crag’s tops :D. Marius took photos of us from the trail, poor him, I think he was so bored and freezing waiting there. We sit down for a while again and admire all that beautiful views. Meanwhile Andrei decides to try to rappel directly from the top if the ropes can reach the first pitch. You can choose two rappels, one back to the saddle and another one right down to the first pitch avoiding problems with recovering the ropes.
Andrei goes first and when he reaches the first pitch, he says that he will try to check if the rope doesn’t get stuck. Of course we aren’t so lucky, it gets stuck at a little rock edge because of the node which just won’t pass it at all. Andrei tells me to go under the spot where the rope is stuck, and to try to pull it till the node moves, pfua a hard thing to do, I start to shake in that place and get afraid a bit, it is so stunning, so high and I am not in a funny position but it is the only thing I can do, otherwise I will have to pull back the ropes and rappel to the saddle.

Andrei on top of the Corner Crack
The top
Nice rock seen from Corner Crack route 3A
Impressive view from the saddle or window

Another rappel and we were down there with Marius. Happy with the success, we got to Plaiul Foii at dark and pitched our tent (we never leaeve anything there because of frequent thefts :() Marius didn’t want to put up his tent, choosing to sleep under the stars in his sleeping bag. I offered to pitch his tent for him 🙂 but he refused. It started to rain and we heard the car doors slam soon hahahaha. We woke in the middle of the quiet night, as usual, to crunch something.

Wednesday

Before the tooth pain
Before I had a toothache

We started with a coffee and omelettes in Plaiul Foii hut then got ready for a hike in the Anghelide area, unmarked. But soom I suddenly stopped on the way, an awful toothache made me run back, I didn’t have any painkillers with me. The boys continued.

I reached the car, struggled with both tents. When I started to pitch them a crazy wind made me feel like I was a kite or paraglider. It took me a while to fight it but I finally succeeded. The good side of being alone there was that I could go to the river and have a wash. When I finished I was surprised to see Andrei! He did not want to leave me alone there all day. Well, I am a big girl, I can manage alone but I was glad to see him 😀 !! Then we went to the hut, drank a beer on the terrace, ate, got lazy, cold began to bite so we got into the tent. It was late when Marius returned. His strong flashlight made me think that I could see a dog’s eye. What a crazy imagination I had on this trip lol. Marius told us how it was by the Termopile – a crazy hike through unmarked wild places. He’d lost the trail but luckily found it. Now he was proudly showing us his scratches and telling us how he’d walked in the dark through an area which is home to bears, but he’d seen only rabbits.

Beautiful view

We tried to convince him to take us in his car to Zarnesti so that we could buy cigarettes, coffee and sweets, but no way, he was too tired to drive! We considered going on foot but it was too much: 12 km one way, also we should not be tired the next day – the plan was to climb Coarnele Caprei (Goat Horns), a nice rockclimbing route, 4 A 8lc. Would we climb it tomorrow? In the night the usual snack, snickers, red wine, a beautiful view of the ridge in the dark that made us gaze at it for quite a while in spite of the cold.

Piatra Craiului from Plaiul Foii

Thursday

 

Andrei leading to the first pitch on Black Rose
Andrei on first pitch of Black Rose 3B 6 6+

 

Oh it was so cold all night and such a cold morning also! We could not get out of the tent in any form in the first hour, we just moved to the hut pretty late where it was warm and we had a coffee! Ohh I couldn’t believe it when Marius brought ice from the car! Yes, it was clear and beautiful now but freezing at night and in the morning!

We ran to Zarnesti, the Coarnele Caprei plan had fallen through, it was too late already. We bought more cigarettes, 3 in 1 coffee a lot, too much :)), some sweets and some food for the next days. We went back and thought about what to do. Marius wanted to rest while Andrei and I decided to go to Diana, via the Padina Popii trail, to try the Black Rose rockclimbing route. On the way there we both felt tired and took a break in the sun before finally we got to the base of Black Rose,3B,6/6+.
It was already late and we weren’t in our best shape at all. I did not feel well, maybe if I had insisted a little more Andrei would have continued but it wouldn’t have been any pleasure. We will return another time for sure. Now we climbed just the first pitch. I do not know if that was the right decision but honestly what’s the point of climbing if you don’t feel well? We went down back to Plaiul Foii pretty fast.

 

Black Rose, first pitch
Andrei on the first pitch and me at the base
With Andrei on Black Rose
The view from Black Rose
View from the wall

Friday

 

 

Morning coffee in Plaiul Foii hut

 

Again coffee in the hut, usually until we finished it the sun had come out :), we ate some eggs again and decided to go to find some Princess, that is to say another hidden shelter. It was a very pleasant trail, incredibly wild and beautiful and although we were tired we were enjoying every moment of the day. We saw some grouse flying, I marvelled at the impressive scenery, and finally the shelter showed up. It looked like it was cut out of a fairy tale! As pretty as the one we visited on Monday, too bad someone had destroyed the tables inside, luckily the stove still worked. The boys went to pick some wood for the next days and I started to cook, what organized guys we were :). A great evening followed, we could see the nearby Bucegi Mountains in all their splendor, many colorful lights from the cities and a dream beautiful crescent of the moon! I was loving that place! Some funny old traditional songs topped off the evening.

Saturday

We woke up, drank our coffee as usual till the sun appeared, this time in front of the shelter, on a cliff from where we had a great view. We were still thinking of climbing Coarnele Caprei, but rarely do plans made at home match what happens in the field… So I would go with Andrei, Marius would remain there to explore the area, yeah right, he felt like being lazy again. We got off, through a chimney, and onto the ridge.

A gully from Martoiu area
Andrei on one of many ways that get you to the ridge
Looking for routes

We sat for a short while to admire the beautiful scenery, ohhh gosh I love these mountains! Then we left the sunny place and got in the shade and cold toward Padina lui Calinet. And lower, and lower, at one point Andrei called me and pointed at a herd of chamois, ohhhh how beautiful they were and how many of them already had black fur!!! Then we admired the edge of Timbal wall with its specific towers, typical of the Piatra Craiului, which seem to be out of an old fairy tale. We went on descending and descending. It was becoming harder and steeper, some help from Andrei, my knee hurt and kept telling me all the time: Hey I’m here, I’ve woken up and I want to be your friend! Pfffff …. We met a group of people and stopped for a while because they knew Andrei from carpati.org or his blog, ohh these stars and elves.

 

Side ridge of Timbal seen from Padina lui Calinet
Chamois in Padina lui Calinet
Padina lui Calinet

 

Finally we arrived at the place where Andrei expected the route to begin. We tried to find the beginning, guessing which spot it might be. Then Andrei prepared to go to look for the first piton.

 

Andrei at begining of Coarnele Caprei ridge, 4A looking for the first bolt

He found it, but stayed there not knowing what to do. It was late, frustration and indecision came over us. I thought that he wanted to do that route so bad. I told him that if he wanted I would come whatever happened but he took the hard decision, so hard to quit because of lack of time. We didn’t know the route or if it is short enough for us to manage to do it before dark. I felt sadness and I felt stupid and did not know what to do or what to say. We packed the gear so sad, reached the Sperantelor Shelter and started to scramble up the Window Gully . Pfff I felt tired already from the descent of Padina lui Calinet and it was harder that it should be to pass all those steps also because of the pain in my knees. Andrei started to hurry me because we still had a long way to go to the shelter and we wanted to detour via Curmatura Hut so that we could eat something warm, a big detour from our route. Ufff I wished I could stay longer in that gorgeous area, especially just out of the Cioranga Canyon. I took as many pictures as I could and ran after Andrei. Soon we got onto the ridge and the marked trail very close to Ascutit Peak with its refuge. We wanted to avoid all the people from there and got down very fast to Curmatura Hut, in less than an hour :). We sat outside the hut with a friend of Andrei’s who we met there, beer, coke, the much needed food, which was cold not hot as we’d dreamed but good, cabbage with sausage and hot pepper which really was hot, we felt it a long time after :)).

 

Window Gully
Window Gully
Out of Cioranga Canion
Out of Cioranga Canion

 

The sun was gone and the cold began to reign again. On the way down although we were so sad we still had the power to admire the beautiful autumn colors, the river that rippled through the silence, all week had been so good, quiet, no living soul: What a pleasure it is to be in the mountains! The dark overpowered us when we got into the forest on the trail to the shelter. My imagination went crazy again, I started to imagine countless bear paws coming out of the trees and pulling me there. Andrei is always laughing at my fear of bears and he played some Romanian folk music on his mobile to relax me. Hahahah we went on with that music there in dark. Soon we reached the glade before the shelter where we had a long stop to admire another beautiful view. The shadows of the trees and the crescent of the moon above them looked unreal, so unreal, like in a fairy tale, like in the perfect world, another world which you wouldn’t leave, where you would stay for ages. It’s hard to put into words everything we felt out there at that moment, incredibly beautiful and special, I will never forget it.

 

Walls from Cioranga Canion
Out of Cioranga Canion

The cold made us to move in the end and soon we arrived at the shelter where Marius was waiting for us with the fire already made. It was so warm and so hospitable, like at home. Andrei took out a beer and gave it to Marius, which made him happy. We ate and drank together. Marius had spent all day there, just strolling around, pfua lazy Marius, I told you ha ha. A few talks and we fell asleep soon, with stories from 1001 nights this time lol. After 11 hours out, yes we felt tired 🙂

 

Beautiful view from a hidden refuge

Sunday

Nothing interesting, going down, a stop at Gura Raului Hut where we ate, wow I ate everything, usually I leave something on the plate but I felt so hungry then. Marius took us to Brasov from where we caught a train to Bucharest right away.

At the end of my story I will rewrite a few words translated from Andrei’s blog where he has posted my diary (he says he was too lazy to write anything himself).

We had the fog, rain and wind but also we had the sun and freezing temperatures. We had lazy moments, hikes and a few rock climbs. But above all I had wonderful people with me. I enjoyed our trip a lot and I can only say it was just wonderful!

Posted by: andreeacorodeanu | November 16, 2012

Pursuing for a summit (Cotopaxi 2009)

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Attempts

Cotopaxi, is one of Ecuador’s most popular climbs. I’m sure most of people who come to this Andean country write its name down on their to do list. Well, that was my case, I dreamed about climbing it way before I came from Romania to visit this country. I never thought it’ll take me some time until I can put my feet on its summit.It wasn’t until my third attempt that I was able to stand on its top. My first time, one of the most common mistakes most climbers do, to climb up to 4,800 m after just five days of my arrival to Ecuador (Quito), and to not give myself enough time to acclimatize.The consecuencies of it was AMS, I felt extremelly sick and had to be taken down at midnight from the mountain to a lower elevation in the National Park. I started to feel much better as soon as I spent a night at 3,900 m which it is still relatively high for somebody who just came up from almost sea level.
I took advantage of a guided trip Boriss (ECU) got to Cotopaxi. It was a large group led by an Ecuadorian who thought taking care of his bussines was more important that anybody’s life. A couple of his clients got sick while spending the night at the refuge. They tried to let him know about it, but actually he didn’t care a thing about it and forced them to leave the refuge at night in the middle of a storm. Of course they couldn’t even reached the glacier in those bad healthy conditions. Boriss told him that he’ll take me to a lower elevation, ’cause I wasn’t feeling right. But he didn’t want to allow that in order to take care of his company reputation.
It didn’t pass more than ten minutes and Boriss and I were on our way down, despite his orders. We set a tent up at the base of the mountain that morning, and started walking down to the nearest city by dawn.

This didn’t end up there. Strong thoughts of climbing Cotopaxi constantly spun around my mind. It started to be an obssesion. Boriss got another trip up to Cotopaxi, it was my chance to give it a try. So we planned to enter into the National Park a day prior the climb, in order to meet with the clients there.

We walked from Pedregal, the closest town to the National Park for about four hours, carrying a tent and more supplies for an extra day at the glacier. The plan was to climb a day after the guiding trip. It’d be twice in a row for Boriss.
Well, just the hike from Pedregal to “Paja Blanca” lodge took a toll on me.. I felt completely exhausted and I didn’t think I’d be able to climb again Cotopaxi in those conditions. Anyway, we met with four french guys and with Ivan (ECU). We spent the night at the lodge, then the following night at the refuge. The weather was so bad that night that many didn’t leave the refuge. It wasn’t my time yet.

The climb

Third time. Boriss got clients for Cotopaxi and there I was taking adventage of it again. We took a bus to the Cotopaxi south entrance where we should switched to a pick up truck. Our driver “Wilson” was accompanied by his small 3 year old daughter. We went through the control gate, without paying a cent, it was easy.. he knew the gate care takers.
We met with the clients one hour later at “Tambo Paxi” lodge. Markus (GER) and Mehmet (TUR) have been spending a couple of days there acclimatizing. Markus wasn’t feeling good, so he remained in the lodge while the rest of us headed up to the refuge. It was a clear sunny day… all the mountains were in sight, Cotopaxi, Corazón, Illinizas, Rumiñahui, Sincholagua etc. It was the day!

We started our 45-minute-hike from the parking lot up to the refuge. The three of us had lunch as soon as we arrived. Then Mehmet and Boriss had a quick knot tying reminder lesson at the refuge’s second floor, while I tried to catch up some of them from very close. We all have the rest of the afternoon off to do whatever we pleased… Mehmet went for a walk around the refuge while Boriss and I started to get ready with our gear for the night. More teams arrived to the refuge by late afternoon, but not as many as the day before.

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Mehmet, Boriss and I shared a table with Hugo (ecuadorian guide) and his french client and had dinner around 6:00 pm. Mehmet didn’t feel ok at that time and I thought he won’t be able to leave from the refuge that night.

We all went to bed at 8:00 pm. It was an awful night for me. I kept having bad dreams all night long until midnight when we had to get up from bed in order to start getting ready for the climb. Everybody, including us left the refuge at 1:00 am after having a light midnight breakfast.

Ours was one of the last teams leaving the refuge. We felt good and started passing everybody on our way up to the glacier. But half and hour later I started to feel nausseous and sick. I felt like I ate too much. But I kept moving up slower until we got to the glacier line. The weather was perfect, clear, starlit and windless.

Getting to the glacier line meant crampons on and rope up together. I almost got sent back with a girl who turned back from the glacier line to the refuge. I started feeling better so I remained there with the rest of climbers. I didn’t think I’d be that lucky next time, the weather was perfect, the route up in excellent conditions.. I didn’t care if I had to reach the summit crawling, I wanted to do it!

Penitentes

From 5400m

Mehmet and I started heading up by he glacier guided by Boriss. We crossed some beautiful deep crevasses on our way up. The weather was more than perfect now as well as the ice/snow conditions. We kept the same pace and rhythm up to Yanasacha (Black Rock Wall). But once there Mehmet started to feel the exhaustion of the climb. He felt like he won’t be able to reach the summit for a while, and I wished he could gain enough strength to keep climbing up. Actually I felt the same way. The summit didn’t look too far, so Boriss suggested us to give it a last try to the summit. I felt happy again.

The summit

The last hundred and a half meters to the summit became steeper. The sun was rising up, so we didn’t need our headlamps anymore. It was necessary to climb by an exposed pass in order to reach the summit bergschrund. We crossed it and kept climbing up to the summit… passed the very last deep narrow crevasse and we got it!.. We were on the summit. I felt so happy of my achievement. I felt so tired and happy at the same time.

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The view from up there was amazing. Thin clouds covered the crater most part of the time while we were at the summit, but they occasionaly drifted away letting us admire its dimentions and beauty. I could see the whole northern part of the Cordillera Occidental and its peaks towering above the valley.
Illiniza Sur’s glacier looked so impressive and small at the same time. Global warming is making its glaciers retreat pretty fast.

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Suddenly, I felt very sick at the summit. I had a bad headache, nauseous and loss of balance. I felt like I didn’t have any power in my legs and control of my movements. We started heading down, passed through a penitentes field. Besides my weakness, I still had a bit of strenght left in me to enjoy of the views.The penitentes field looked bizarre, and those crevasses looked bottomless.It was the first time I climbed and crossed through them. The dryness of the mountain let us see hundreds of them on our way down.

I wanted to rest so bad for at least one minute, but it was kind of late for us to keep taking breaks at the glacier. The warmth of the day was melting the snow very fast, and ice bridges on the crevasses were getting weaker little by little.

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We were the last team to arrive to the refuge. It took us about three hours to descent from the summit. Grabbed our gear and started walking down to the parking lot. We got in the truck which took us to Tambo Paxi lodge. Left Mehmet there and continued north to the town of Machachi, where we switched to a bus to Quito.

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The exhaustion of the climb lasted for a while and I still felt its remnants on me, even while in town (seems that I had a bad infection from some time so great that I could climb it like this…). But they faded away with time and the only things that remained were the memories and the happiness of being able to stand on the second highest elevation in the Ecuadorian Andes.

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